1. Brown Algae - Diatoms (Diatomaceae)
inadequate illumination in older aquariums without CO2 or excessive ammonia levels in recently installed tanks. It prefers the presence of silicates and ammonia, the latter of which can come from tap water, sand, poor-quality gravel, stones unfit for use in aquariums, and zeolite-based filter material. There are two main varieties: the slimy brown surface type and the thin brown thread type. It is not a “dangerous” sort of algae because it is readily eliminated (only need a wipe of the aquarium glass) and fades quickly. Otocinclus Affinis, which eats algae, will swiftly eliminate it after consuming it. You will need to increase light intensity (or the number of hours of illumination) in low-tech (non-CO2) aquariums; however, bear in mind that this will result in a greater CO2 and fertiliser requirement. With today’s sophisticated aquariums, it will eventually vanish on its own. Make an effort to physically remove it and facilitate the growth of nitrifying bacteria. Older aquariums with adequate lighting will exhibit poor water quality and silicate buildup.
2. Green Spot Algae - GSA (Choleochaete)
Small, rounded patches on hard surfaces; the glass of the aquarium is the most noticeable. It also occurs on slow-growing plants, most often Anubias species. It is the algae that thrives in healthy aquariums, and you may find some of it in most aquariums.
It prefers bright sunlight and blooms in low CO2 and/or phosphate environments. It adheres firmly to a variety of surfaces, making algae eaters unable to truly remove it. Part of it can be eliminated by the Zebra Nerite Snail and its relatives, however not very well. Replant the slow-growing plants in shaded regions after using an algae scraper to remove it from the glass. These plants can withstand low sunlight. Regular water changes and effective filtration are important for medium-light aquariums; for strong illumination, evaluate the effectiveness of your CO2 injection and fertilisation schedule. Since phosphate (PO4) insufficiency is the primary culprit, please begin adding extra phosphate to address the root problem.
3. Green Dust Algae
The majority of green dust algae are found in sophisticated planted aquariums. The tiny green dots adhere to hardscape and aquarium glass to generate a coating resembling dust. Normally, this kind of algae won’t grow on plants. This kind of algae, which is made up of individual cells with the ability to move, has an exact origin that is unknown. It is mostly brought on by low CO2 and poor nutrition levels. Often seen in recently constructed aquariums.
Algae scrapers don’t work since eventually the cells that were taken out of the glass and floating in the water would adhere to hard surfaces once again. Treating the symptoms: You must let these algae to thrive for ten to twenty days without any interruptions! It will develop a thick green covering that is easily removed in large chunks by sucking out the underlying reason, and it won’t reappear later.
4. Green Fuzz Algae (Oedogonium)
Every strand algae is displaying low or erratic CO2 values! Uneven CO2 levels (due to a pH computer, for example) or an incorrectly set timer (CO2 levels must reach the required level at the moment when light, even natural light in your room, comes) can both be the source of fluctuations in carbon dioxide levels. The Fuzz Algae is a kind of thread algae that develops on plant leaves in very thin, millimeter-thin threads. It suggests that the primary cause of the plants’ suffering (localised leaf rotting) is a nutrient shortage (for instance, an uneven distribution of CO2 across the aquarium owing to uneven flow). It may show up on withered or damaged leaves. Amano Shrimp and algae eaters will eat.
In order to address the reason, you must make sure that the CO2 levels are appropriate and schedule your CO2 injection to coincide with the lighting period (start it two to three hours beforehand and turn it off at the same time as the lights). Please remember to account for natural light as well. Even if your lamp will turn on at noon, the morning light might cause plants’ CO2 needs to rise.
5. Green Beard Algae
Every strand algae is displaying low or erratic CO2 values! Uneven CO2 levels (due to a pH computer, for example) or an incorrectly set timer (CO2 levels must reach the required level at the moment when light, even natural light in your room, comes) can both be the source of fluctuations in carbon dioxide levels. Presumably, the Green Beard Algae is a more aggressive kind of Green Fuzz Algae. The longer, finer threads will cling to hardscape elements and plants. It can spread out a few centimetres and cover them in a thick layer of green. Sometimes it may be quite ornamental. Eaters of algae will love it.
It adheres firmly to surfaces, making mechanical removal challenging. The strands are weak and slimy. It is a common algae seen in fish tanks devoid of vegetation, however it does not always mean that the water is of poor quality. In planted tanks, it means that either the CO2 levels are too low, the illumination time is too long (cut it down to 8 hours), or there isn’t enough nitrate in the water.
6. Black Brush Algae (Audouinella sp.)
Often referred to as Black Beard Algae, this kind is extremely hard to remove! The tiny, half-centimeter-long black, dark-grey, or reddish hairballs will form in patches or clusters of thin black tufts. Strong flows are its preference, and it adheres well to hardscape and submerged equipment (internal filters, filter inflows and outflows, etc.). Algae eaters won’t appreciate the calcium that is integrated into the threads if your water is hard. Although they are inefficient, Amano prawns and Siamese algae eaters will consume it. The ultimate answer will be to solve the issue of CO2 distribution that may be uneven or absent in a highly illuminated aquarium. It will be easier to let the water settle before changing its colour when there is less light. The high CO2 content of tap water and fresh RO water will benefit these algae, but low-tech, slowly-growing plants won’t benefit from it.
One of the hardest types of algae to get rid of is this one. It manifests itself inexplicably even in more established, remarkably steady lush tanks. The majority of the time, there is no guarantee that the spots won’t return, even if they are removed one at a time with valiant scrubbing. The ADA Pro picker is a very useful tool for removal. This algae can be killed by applying a liquid carbon supplement locally using a syringe after turning off the filter. It will become pale and red, then vanish.
7. Blanked Weed (Cladophora)
The moss-ball will be held accountable by some for the Cladophora infection’s spread. Granted, the moss-ball belongs to a different species of Cladophora than the one responsible for the invasion of blanket weed. Due of its sluggish growth, algae may readily assault the moss ball, since they will flourish on its surface.
The rough, branching algae known as blanket weed resembles some sort of moss. It may be separated and eliminated from the centre of your plants since it will only cling to a place and spread from there. You will need to take it down very carefully if it contaminates your moss. Algae eaters won’t touch it. Better CO2 and flow will be beneficial; lower illumination will force it away from the plants. If you utilise solely lab-grown plants in your aquarium, you may fully prevent this algae because it won’t spread via the air.
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Reference : https://aquascapinglove.com
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