Because it feeds algae-eating fish and invertebrates and helps cleanse the water of harmful waste compounds, algae is a naturally occurring component of the ecology in aquariums. Since too much algae may impede your view of the fish tank and slow down healthy plant development, most people consider it as an unwanted visitor. Let’s discuss 5 simple ways to remove algae off the walls and ornaments of your aquarium.
1. Use Tools to Manually Remove Algae
The first method on our list is physically removing algae with your hands since it works quickly and doesn’t require much waiting. Now let’s discuss the best equipment you should have in your toolbox. The easiest technique to remove algae from your aquarium walls that is obstructing your fish’s view is to use an algae scrubber. This soft sponge won’t harm your acrylic or glass tanks because it is composed of non-toxic melamine foam. When removing really stubborn algae, such as green spot algae, use a Mag-Float Glass Cleaner together with the appropriate scraper blades if you’re experiencing problems. When it comes to tank maintenance, these glass-safe blades cut through green spot algae with the ease of a hot knife into butter.
Hardscape, plant leaves, aquarium ornaments, and difficult-to-reach places are all excellent candidates for an algae brush. With the algae brush, you can eliminate some forms of hair algae by snagging the algae strands. so that the algae ends up on a fork like spaghetti. Lastly, use an aquarium syphon to remove any sand or gravel if you notice hair algae or brown diatom algae beginning to cover the substrate.
2. Get Help from Algae-Eating Animals
Many individuals immediately search for an algae eater as the answer to all their issues when algae development begins to overwhelm a fish tank. They are ranked second on our list because, (1) each species that feeds on algae only consumes a certain type of algae, and (2) they might not be able to thoroughly clean the entire aquarium. Still, they can help you fight off algae and are a good second line of defence. Our favourite things to keep in nano tanks are a school of otocinclus catfish, nerite snails and amano shrimp. Invest in Siamese algae eaters or bristlenose plecos for larger aquariums to cover more space.
3. Remove Excess Organics in the Tank
Because of its extreme adaptability, algae may easily absorb organic resources such as fish faeces, diseased leaves, uneaten fish food, and other nitrogen-containing materials. It helps to get rid of any sources of nutrients that algae can feed on if your aquarium is still relatively fresh and hasn’t developed much. Whenever you do a water change in a planted tank, grab a pair of scissors and snip off any dead or algae-covered leaves. If you see that the fish aren’t eating all you feed them in a short period of time, use a syphon to remove decaying sludge from the bottom. You should also feed them less.
Furthermore, blue-green algae prefer to develop in aquarium “dead zones,” or pockets of detritus that emerge when the stream is too sluggish or there are several huge ornaments and hardscapes obstructing the flow. You may achieve better water flow by rearranging the decorations, adding substrate to the spaces between the hardscape, or upgrading the filter or circulation pump.
4. Balance the Lighting and Nutrients
In the end, treating the underlying issue that is allowing the algae to outcompete your plants is the most efficient method of getting rid of algae. In order to photosynthesize and develop, algae need the same resources as plants require, such as nutrients and light, and they can exploit these resources at an uncontrollably high or low rate.
We advise using an outlet timer to turn on your light for about 6 to 8 hours a day (as a beginning point) in order to balance your planted tank. From there, you may progressively raise or reduce the amount of nutrients as needed. To reduce the quantity of nitrogen waste, replace the water if the nitrate level is more than 50 parts per million. Apply Easy Green all-in-one fertiliser to the tank until the water’s nitrate content reaches 20 ppm if the nitrate level is less than that. Allow two to three weeks to pass between each lighting or nutrition change you make so you can see the effects on your plants and make the necessary adjustments. Since it is impossible to get rid of all algae, the objective is to reduce it until it is hardly detectable.
5. Treat with an Algae Inhibitor
Finding a chemical treatment that is potent enough to impact the algae without endangering the fish tank’s inhabitants is a difficult balancing act when it comes to fish tanks. Although liquid carbon is more correctly marketed as an algae inhibitor that is known to slow down the growth of algae, it is also frequently supplied as fertiliser for aquarium plants. Our brand of liquid carbon, Easy Carbon, is safe for fish and invertebrates and comes with a simple pump head dispenser that makes dosing your fish tanks fast and easy. Moreover, you may use a pipette to apply Easy Carbon directly to stubborn areas of black beard algae (BBA), one of the hardest kinds of algae to eradicate.
Chemical treatments are included last on our list because, in our opinion, they are most beneficial after you have balanced your planted aquarium’s lighting and nutrition levels. If you attempt to use algaecides in your tank without following any of the preceding four stages, the chemicals will have minimal to no effect and the algae will continue to grow again.
All images featured in this web blog are sourced from the internet.
Reference : https://www.aquariumcoop.com
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